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Mango Ba

White water rafting through Hanoi

November 5, 2012

I'm sitting outside a local cafe drinking in Hanoi's bustling street-scape with my eyes and my sugary watermelon juice with my lips.

A cool-looking lanky dude out front slices off coconut tops with his short machete and a fine mist of coconut water sprays me, cooling me down on this blistering hot day.

Is that spray still from the coconuts? I wonder as ever larger globules of liquid begin to descend.

Nup - the dark clouds have gathered above, have opened up and are releasing an insane tropical downpour.

Grabbing my laptop, I scramble under shelter, safe from the pelting rain.

The street quickly fills up with brown, choppy water, as the rain drops become golf-ball sized.

Soon grade 5 rapids gush past, and I half expect the Swiss white-water rafting Olympic team to skim by and flash peace signs, as they do.

My girlfriend Kat calls.

What? You want me to pick you up NOW?

Jumping on my scooter, I pursue the Swiss (actually an old geezer on a moped full of cartoon-faced helium balloons) who's now tangled up with a lady and her lychee-stacked bicycle.

Greasy water laps up around my waist as I ford the river-road, scooping Kat up as I whiz by.

As we float along, I think about how Hanoi is really a ‘City of Scooters’, with literally millions of them clogging the roads.

It's also a city of rain. Lots and lots of tropical rain.

When I moved to Hanoi and was yet to get my motorbike, my workmate, Quang, offered me a lift home.

But Quang is a dwarf. How would his feet reach the motorbike's gears, let alone the ground?

Quang dived into a sea of parked motorbikes and pulled out a modified tricycle. A chariot of sorts with a raised backend - fully pimped out.

Nice.

Bouncing along the road, Quang slid down his wrap-around sunnies, turns the iginition, and we putt putt off into the smoky chaos.

Riding pillion, I had never felt so cool. Easy-rider-style.

I was like some royal doofus being driven through Hanoi’s charming winding alleyways in a fume-belching chariot. We passed Mango Ba my proxy yoda-esque granny. She waved at us with a snagged-tooth smile.

Flash-forward to present:

In the muddy torrent, we almost coagulate with other scooters at the traffic lights. Kat shouts above the deluge that about a month ago we'd be cursing right about now - at the rain, other motorbikes, the roadside muck splashing us straight into our face-holes.

But we don't do that anymore. We are so... well, Zen. Like our fellow scooter-ers, either covered with plastic ponchos or completely drenched. They just do their thing, and never ever... everrrrr complain. 

Looking down at the petrol dial, it flicks past the red 'Empty tank' wedge into the white "this-scooter-is-being-powered-on-fumes-alone" territory.

C'est la vie, we agree happy and carefree.

A blue truck rumbles past, splashing us and soaking us to the bone with the city's finest sludge.

"&^I&%##!!! &%%%%$$@!$!!" we shout as one.

Not so Zen after all, I guess.

← Chocolate everywhere, but not a bit to bite

Pop culture stop

Source

Source

Like everyone else, I know how this movie ends.

And it's just really gross. But kind of cool too.

It's based on a guy called Aron Ralston, a young adrenalin junkie who goes canyoning in the wilds of Utah, solo - without telling a soul. 

Spoiler alert: early on in the film Aron, played by James Franco, dislodges a boulder, plunges down a crevice, and gets pinned by the same rock.

And that rock ain't going nowhere, no-how.

Directed by Danny Boyle of Shallow Grave, Trainspotting and Slumdog Millionaire fame, the film is based on Ralston's book Between a Rock and a Hard Place.

A title that sums up his gory tale, and the movie's story arc.

Boyle is awesome at branding his films with powerful imagery geared towards a hyperactive media-crazed instant gratification audience.

From the kick-off the movie goes full-throttle as Aron recklessly sets off on his adventure: hurtling down the highway in a beat up car while his headphones blast pulsing beats.

“Boyle has a real knack for branding his films with powerful imagery geared towards a hyperactive media-crazed instant gratification audience.”

Within the same heartbeat he's on his mountain bike as the stunningly bleak mars-like Utah landscape flashes by.

He meets some babes. Shows them an subterranean lake only accessible by slipping down a groin-tinglingly narrow rift. Then he's off, pumped on nature, fresh air and the rush of living life to its fullest...

Then Aron slips. He's now trapped.

Frozen in time and space by nature: the drug that has always pushed him to dizzying heights.

Camera zooms on Aron's stunned face and the Movie title appears for the first time: 127 Hours.

Brake is applied heavily now for momentum-loving viewers - or is it?

Sometimes this film was hard to watch (and for a few nerve-snapping moments - unbearable).

Franco does great credit to Aron's gritty determination, and Boyle doesn't rely on sentimentality or melodrama.

It's like a companion piece to Sean Penn's Into the Wild, but thankfully here the hero survives.

Like Into the Wild's care-free hero, for Aron it's the people in his life, and the premonition of his future son, which gives him the courage and down-right ballsy-ness to, literally, disarm himself to break free.

So yeah - he gruesomely and noisily hacks off his own limb. But as he's scrambles out of the crevasse, one arm down, he looks back at the rock and says 'Thank you'.

Then he snaps a selfie of his dismembered hand with his membered hand.

Through the entire film Aron stays level-headed and never loses his great love of nature and even the very rock that so nearly entombed him.

This is a powerful film, and a tribute to the importance of human love and the brutal and unforgiving beauty of the wild.

“Through the entire film Aron stays level-headed and never loses his great love of nature and even the very rock that so nearly entombed him. ”